Columbus Day in El Retiro Park

We realized eventually that the reason hotel rooms in Madrid were so expensive was because we would be visiting the city during one of the biggest holidays of the year - Fiesta Nacional de España - which commemorates the day Columbus landed in America. Military planes fly over the city, and there is a big parade featuring the different branches of the armed forces. One unit of the army, the Spanish Legion, marches with its mascot - a ram. For the occasion, his horns are painted gold and he wears a fancy cape.

A letter had been posted in the elevator at the hotel warning guests to use caution during the holiday. Patriotic feelings were running strong due to the imminent announcement of the verdicts for the Catalan separatist leaders. Most people in Madrid were presumably on the other side of that controversy since Madrid was the place many people in Catalonia wanted to separate from. When we first arrived in the city, we had encountered some sort of huge demonstration moments after we stepped outside the train station. We never did learn what that was about, but allusions were made to other recent large demonstrations.

We decided to avoid the morning's festivities and to spend a quiet day in el Retiro Park, but as we approached the park, small formations of helicopters and planes were still flying overhead. One group would fly by, a couple of minutes would pass, and then another group would follow.

After watching several groups fly overhead, we wandered past the Puerta de Alcalá, which was, at one time, the main entrance to the city. It was erected in 1778 by the Italian architect Francesco Sabatini.

The morning had been cloudy but the weather was getting nicer all the time, and the park was packed with people enjoying the warm autumn day. Everyone seemed to be more intent on enjoying their holiday than expressing their political views. A puppet show was in progress, and there were numerous street performers. One sat in a giant panda costume hoping that passerbys would want to exchange some coins for the priviledge of taking a photo with him. My favorite was a young woman in a colorful costume who played a lively tune in exchange for a few coins.

The group in the picture below were having some sort of dog training class. The people in the picture on the left in the second row were dancing under the trees.

I hadn't done any research on what to see in the park so stumbling upon this monument to King Alfonso XII was a delightful surprise. A national contest was held in 1922 to design a monument, and this was the winning design.

We came upon many smaller statues, fountains and monuments as we wandered about. The Fountain of the Fallen Angel pictured below was created by the sculptor Ricardo Bellver, and it made its first appearance at the 3rd World's Fair in Paris. It was later acquired by the Museo del Prado which donated it to the city of Madrid. Inspired by a passage in John Milton's Paradise Lost, it depicts Lucifer at the moment he is cast out of Heaven.

The Crystal Palace was another delightful surprise. It seems that temporary exhibitions are held here, but at the time of our visit, the exhibit was changing so the conservatory was closed.

There were several small groups of musicians performing nearby.

Near the park exit, we came upon what would surely be one of my favorite places if I lived in Madrid and could read books written in Spanish - a long row of shacks selling used books. I was extremely jealous that I don't have access to such a wonderful resource at home.

Exploring parks in places that we visit is always one of my favorite things to do.