Phnom Penh

Getting the required e-Visa to visit Cambodia had been challenging. Apparently we submitted our forms way too early so each time we checked on the status a message saying that "your time is long" was displayed, but there was no indication as to what an acceptable time period for applying might be. Finally about 2 weeks before we left on our trip, the magic day arrived and our e-Visas were approved. An e-Arrival form was also required, but that could only be submitted a couple of days before we entered the country.

We were a bit nervous when we landed fearing that we had missed some small detail, but the officials barely glanced at our papers. The tour company had arranged for a driver to pick us up, and he was soon leading us through the simmering parking lot. The traffic we encountered during the drive seemed intense, but we would soon experience much worse. Somehow we arrived safely at our hotel and climbed the steps to the rather grand-looking blessedly air-conditioned lobby.

As in Thailand, we were offered a cold drink, and after a short wait we were escorted to our room although it was hours until the official hotel check-in time. The hotel had given us a free upgrade so the room was actually a huge suite. Walt joked that they could put in a bowling lane stretching from the front door back to the bedroom.

Best of all, we had own little porch outside the bedroom where we could watch the street life below.Tuk tuk drivers hustled potential customers, and some sort of bird shrieked incessantly. We decided that he must be in the front of the house on the right in the picture on the right below.

Later that afternoon we met our guide, Ly (pronounced "Lee") who very, very carefully examined everyone's documents to be sure there were no errors that would cause problems during our journey. The group consisted of 4 Australians, 3 Brits, 2 Canadians, and 1 Ukranian. Considering the deep political divide in the United States at the time, it was a relief to learn that we were the only Americans.

After a brief meeting, we headed out to dinner in a lovely restaurant centered around a koi pond. The dishes included a tasty salad with some fried pork pieces on the edge, fish soup, and barbeque chicken. The pile of what looks like green beans is morning glory stems.

The next morning, the group went to the Genocide Museum and the Killing Fields. Although we realize that it is important not to forget this tragic part of Cambodia's history, we generally avoid visiting such places. We opted instead to strike out on our own.

We wanted to take a walk towards a nearby park, but it turns out that it is pretty much impossible to walk in Phnom Penh - at least in neighborhoods frequented by tourists - because you are constantly approached by the extremely persistent tuk tuk drivers. If they noticed us after they had passed, they would make erratic U-Turns and drive against traffic to return to us. If they were going in the same direction, they would dash acrosss several lanes of traffic. It was insane, and it turned out that Walt was absolutely no good at firmly saying "NO!" and walking away because He didn't want to be rude to them. He would patiently try to explain to them that we preferred to walk, but they would not listen.

The drivers offered us rides at ridiculously low prices. They warned us that people on motorbikes would grab our camera and speed away. Nothing we said discouraged them. While they argued on and on, I tried to admire the amazing walls and buildings that surrounded us - like this Buddhist monastery.

The sidewalks were almost totally devoid of pedestrians - perhaps because of the tuk tuk drivers.

Another deterrent to a casual walk is the terror of trying to cross the streets. The cars and scooters and tuk tuks just keep coming at you. Crosswalks are meaningless. You just have to wait for a break in the traffic and go for it.

We did manage to walk about 1 mile before giving up and returning to the hotel. By then, the temperature had risen significantly, and we were more than ready to return to the air conditioning.