Montmarte

Wandering the streets of Montmarte, legendry home of artists, writers, and bohemians, seemed an appropriate way to spend our last day in Paris. In preparation, I had read Rick Steeves' suggestions for visiting the area, and I was a bit apprehensive. In addition to the usual warnings about the usual scams, he warns of "seediness" around the metro stations, particularly Barbes Rochechouart. The area around the metro stop did look like it might warrant a bit of caution at night, but during the day there didn't seem to be much to fear.

We weren't actually looking for it, but the first point of interest we stumbled upon was the I Love You Wall in a tiny park along the Place des Abbesses. The wall, built in 2000, is the result of a collaboration between an author and composer named Frederic Baron and a calligrapher named Claire Kito.

In 1992 Baron, a prolific writer of love songs, decided to compile a list of all the different ways that exist in the world to say "I love you." Over the next several years he wandered the streets of Paris asking people to write the phrase on a sheet of paper. The paper was always the same size, but the writer had the choice of using blue, green, red, or black ink. Then Baron noted the country, language, and pronunciation under it. By 1998 he had collected over 1000 versions of the phrase. He compiled many of them into a book called "The Book of I Love Yous" and gave away 50,000 free copies.

When Kito saw his work, she thought it would be a wonderful idea to bring the phrases together into a large fresco. They selected the most beautiful looking and sounding versions, and she tanscribed them into the white typograpy that appears on the 612 enamelled lava tiles that make up the wall. You may notice the red blotches scattered across the tiles. They are meant to represent the lack of love in many places and, if gathered together, they would create a complete heart.

I was most intrigued by the image of Rita Hayworth that appears above the tiles. This is actually the work of Jean Marc Paumier, an urban artist who calls himself Rue Meurt d'Art. Rather than actually painting on the wall, Paumier creates the work on a polyester canvas and varnishes it with polyurethane. The canvas is then carefully glued onto the wall that he has selected. After a period of time, he removes the panel from the wall and transforms it into an actual painting so that the buyer of the painting has a work of art that has lived on the street. Unlike the street artist Banksy who remains anonymous and creates his work clandestinely, Paumier likes to organize a public get-together when he glues a piece onto a wall. His creation is generally well-received although he says he never asks the wall's owner for permission.

The outline to the right of Rita Hayworth is left from a previous painting of Ava Gardner. I found several possible translations of the words, but the one I like the best is "Love is disorder...and so we love."

After watching groups of foreign visitors try to find their own language and pose by the words, we continued on to the funicular which eliminates the need to climb the many steps to Sacré Cœur. The ride takes a mere 90 seconds.

The Basilica of Sacré Cœur is perched atop the butte of Montmarte, the highest natural point in Paris. The only thing that reaches further into the sky is the top of the Eiffel Tower.

The building maintains its striking white color because it is built of travertine limestone which secretes a chalky substance every time it rains that acts as a fresh coat of paint.

This is the incredible view of the city from the cathedral steps.

I would have loved to go inside the church to see the mosaic that adorns the nave, but there was a long line, and it was time for us to start heading towards the airport so we took some last pictures of each other in Paris.

When I think of France I remember the delicious food. Even simple meals were such a treat. I remember the peaceful afternoons at the villa drinking wine and talking with our friends. I remember our long explorations of the supermarché, and I remember the wonderful French people we met who were so different than I had imagined they would be.